From Robyn Curnow, CNN
Walking on the white sands of Durban beach, with South Africa’s powerful waves towering in front of him, surfing icon Shaun Tomson feels right at home.
For this legendary athlete, little can rival the sense of exhilaration and peace brought by the jump from land to water.
“There’s a moment there when you cross from one universe to another and it always happens the same way,” says Tomson.
“All the troubles and worries of the world are behind you: they’re left on land and it’s just you, the ocean and your board and it’s very peaceful and no matter what has happened to you in your life, no matter what struggles you’re going through, it’s that moment of peace and that moment of cleansing that keeps drawing surfers back.”